Fastener for garments of elastic fabric



Dt. 15, 1936. ROSEMAN 2,064,222

FASTENER FORLGARMENTS oF ELAsTIc FABRICv4 Filed May 4, 1935 v 5sheetssheet l Z INVENTOR l ToRNEY L. ROSEMAN FASTENER FOR GARMENTS 0FELASTIC FABRIC Dec. 15, 1936.

Fild May 4; 1955 5 sheets-sheet 2 Genova *.040 #aan AT RNEY De15,1936.I.. OSEMAN 2,664,222l

FASTENER FOR GARMENTS OF ELASTIC FABRIC Filed May/1, 1935 l5sheets-snee# 5 anno 1': "Kan a un) NToR` oRNEY De. 15, 1936. l.. RosEMANI FASTENER FOR GARMENTS OF ELASTIC FABRIC 5 Sheets-Sheet 4 Filed Ma'y 4,1935 Z INVENTOR van ,412% ORNEY Dec. 15, 1936. 1 RosEMAN vFASIENER FORGARMENTS OF ELASTIC FABRIC Filed May 4, 1935 5 Sheets-Sheet 5 VENTORPatented Dec. 15, 1936 UNlTED STATES FASTENER FOR GARMENTS OF ELASTIC(FABRIC Leo Roseman, Newark, N. J. Application May 4, 1935, Serial No.19,830

o 9 claims.

This invention relates to fasteners for use with elastic fabric and moreparticularly with fasteners for the edges of garments formed of elasticfabric, one object of the invention being to provide such a fastenerembodying novel and improved features of construction so that the edgesof the garment carrying the fastener may stretch to accommodatestretching of adjacent portions of the garment, and the fastener shallbe practical, strong and durable.

For many years there has been great demand for elastic garments, andmany efforts have been made to provide a satisfactory elastic fastener.

However, to my knowledge there have been no satisfactory fasteners forthe closures of garments formed of elastic material because either thefasteners have been non-stretchable so as to defeat the purpose of theelastic garment and cause imperfect fit of the garment adjacent theclosure, or discomfort to the wearer; or where the fastener elementshave been applied to elastic tape, the fastener elements quickly becometorn or detached from the tape by the constant stretching and resultantfriction on the threads of the stitches adjacent the fastener elementswhich has caused breaking of the threads. c

Another object of the invention is to provide a fastener of thecharacter described wherein there shall be a minimum of stretchingtension on the stitches which secure the fastener to the garment, or inother words to provide such a fastener wherein the elastic fabric of thegarment may stretch substantially independently of the fasteners and thestitches which attach the fasteners to the elastic fabric.

A further object is to provide such a fastener wherein the fastenerelements shall be directly secured to a strip of material which shall benonelastic or have elasticity less than that of the elastic of which thegarment is formed and said fastener strip shall be secured to theelastic garment by stitches penetrating the elastic garment and thefastener strip only at points closely adjacent the fastener elements,with a certain amount of free slack or puckering in the fastener stripbetween the adjacent fastener elements, so that the said slack orpuckering in the fastener strip will permit stretching of the elasticfabric to an extent limited by the amount of said slack.

Another object is to provide a fastener for the closure of an elasticgarment whereby the fastener will permit different degrees of elasticityat different portions of the closure, so that the closure maybe madenon-elastic, or of limited elasticity, or of substantially unlimitedelasticity, at different points in the length of the closure as may bedesired for proper fitting of the garment and comfort to the wearer.

Other objects are-'to provide a fastener of the character describedwhich shall be substantially concealed, which shall provide thinness ora minimum of bulkiness at the closure of the garment to which thefastener is applied, and which shall permit connection of the edges ofthe closure in edge to edge or abutting relation'instead of inoverlapping relation; and to obtain other advantages and results as willbe brought out by the following description. Y

Referring,v to` the accompanying drawings in which corresponding andlikeparts are designated throughout theseveral views by the samereference characters,

Figure 1 isa perspective View of a garment having a fastener embodyingthe invention applied thereto.

VFigure 2` is an enlarged front elevation of the fastener.

Figure 3 is an enlarged rear elevation of the fastener.

Figure 4 is a transverse vertical sectional view on the line 4 4 ofFigure 2.

Figure 5 is a composite view showing one side of the fastener inlongitudinal vertical section and in normal and stretched conditions'.

` Figure 6 is a composite plan view of the fastener and the edge of thegarmentwith the fastener strip separated from the facing Ystrip and thegarment.

Figure 7 is a similar View with the fastener strip secured in positionon the garment and with the garment in unstretched or normal condition.

Figure 8 is a like view showing the garment stretched.

Figure .9 is an enlarged fragmentary perspective view of the lfastenerstrip.

Figure 10 is a. transverse sectional view onthe line lll-l0 of Figure 9;

Figure 11 is a View similar to Figure 6 showing a modification. of theinvention.

Figures 12 and. 13 areviews similar to Figure 7 showing furthermodifications of the invention. v

Figure 14 is a view similar to Figure 6 showing another modification ofthe eye fastener.l

Figure 15 is a like view lillustrating the hook fastener. l

Figures 16 and 17 are views of the tapes shown in, Figures ls and l5.,completed and with the Figure 24 is a composite view of the parts of avmodified form of fastener.

Figure 25 is a plan view of the parts shown in Figure 24 completelyassembled.

Figure 26 is a plan view showing a combination of the various forms offastener strips to provide different degrees of elasticity along theedges of the garment closure, portions of the garment edge beingbrokenaway. l

Figures 27 and 28 are fragmentary plan views of further modifications ofthe fastener.

Figure 29 is anV enlarged fragmentary perspective sectional View on theline 29-29 of Figure '7.

Figure 30 is a similar view on the line 30-30 of. Figure 27.

Figure 31 is a composite plan view of the parts in another form of thefastener. y

Figure 32 is a plan view of the parts shown in Figure 31, shown inassembled relation and with the fastener unstretched.

Figure 33 is a top plan view showing vthe fastener of Figure 32 instretched condition.

Figure 34 is a bottom plan View ofthe fastener shown in Figure 33.

.Figure 35 is a plan view of the hook fastener to cooperate with the eyefastener of Figure 33.

Figure 36 is a fragmentary sectional perspective view of the fastenershown in Figure 32 in partially assembled condition.

Figure 37 is a horizontal sectional view on the line 31-31 of Figure 33.

Figure 38 is a similar view on the line 38--38 of Figure 35.

Figure 39 is a detached fragmentary perspective view of a modified formof the hook fastener element and Figure 40 is a fragmentary sectionaltrans;- verse view showing a modified manner of stitching the garment onthe facing strip. n

For the purpose of illustrating the principles of the invention I haveshown it in connection with a corset A formed of elastic material whichhas a closure B to which the fastener of the invention is applied. Asshown, the garment is longitudinally stretchable, that is, may stretchfrom top to bottom, and the closure B is correspondingly stretchable topermit accurate fitting of the garment and ensure comfort to the wearer,

One form of the fastener is shown in Figures 2 to 9 inclusive andincludes a strip I of suitable fabric which may be thin elastic fabricor cloth cut on the bias so that the strip is longitudinallystretchable. As shown at 2 and 3 the edge portions of the strip arefolded inwardly upon the main portion to make the strip of doublethickness. This strip is secured to the Vedge of the elastic fabric orgarment A by a line of stitches 4 so formed that at predetermined pointsin the line of stitches, gaps 5 are provided between the facing strip Iand the garment edge to receive fastener elements 6. In stitching thefacing strip to the garment edge, generally the garment edge will belaid fiat on the strip during the stitching operation and then foldedbackwardly over the stitches as shown in Figures 6 and 29 so that'thestitches are concealed on the garment side of the fastener. The gaps 5may be formed in any suitable way for example with a sewing machinewhich at predetermined intervals skips or slips a stitch or stitches,

' one such machine being shown in the copending application of HermanRosenrnan and Leo Roseman, Serial No. 17,160, filed April 19, 1935.

Arranged between the facing strip C and the edge of the garment A is afastener strip or carrier D. This fastener strip is shown as composed oftwo superposed strips 1 of suitable material which is preferablynon-stretchable or is capable of very slight stretching. The fastenerelements 6 are secured between two strips 'I by stitches 8. As shown thefastener elements Yare wire eyes having hook engaging portions 9 andbase loops I0, and the stitches traverse the wire of the eyes and passthrough the base loops for securely fastening the eyes on the strips.The eyes are spaced longitudinally of the strips 'I at distances greaterthan the distances between the gaps 5 when the garment is unstretched sothat as the eyes are slipped through the gaps, slack is formed or thestrip I is puckered between the adjacent eyes as indicated at I I. 'Ihefastener strip D is secured to the facing strip C and garment edgeA onlyat points behind or in close juxtaposition to the respective fastenerelements. For this purpose, the strips 1 are formed with tabs orextensions I2 behind the fastener elements, and a line of stitches I3 isformed through the garment edge A, the tabs I2 and the facing strip C asshown in Figures 7 and 8.

With this construction, it will be observed that when the garment edge Ais in stretched or in normal condition there will be slack or puckeringin the fastener strip D between the adjacent fastener elements as shownin Figures 5 and 7, and that upon stretching of the garment edge, thefacing strip due to its elastic or bias structure may also stretch, andthe slack or puckering in the fastener strip D permit the stretching ofthe garment and facing strip to the limit of the slack II in thefastener strip D as shown in Figures 5 and 8. At the same time, thefastener strip D will limit the stretching,

' so that the facing strip will not be stretched beyond its limit ofstretchability. This is particularly important where the strip is formedof biasl fabric because if bias fabric is stretched beyond a certainpoint it will not retract to its initial non-stretched condition.

. It will be understood by those skilled in the art, that one thread,usually the bobbin thread which is utilized to form the lines ofstitches 4 and I3 will be elastic thread to permit the stretching of theelastic garment and facing strip, while the threads used for the line ofstitches 8 on the fastener strip will be nonstretchable. It will also beobserved that with this construction there will be substantially nostretching or tension upon the stitches 8 adjacent the fastenerelements, so that there will be a minimum tendency to breaking of thestitches and tearing or dislodging of the fastener elements from thestrip. Furthermore, the fastener strip and the main portions of thefastener elements are concealed by the material of the garment and thefacing strip C. The form of the fastener strip and the manner ofsecuring it in position ensures against tilting of the fasteners andlocates the points of connection of the fastener strip with the garmentclosely adjacent the points of strain on the fastener elements when theyare embodied in a garment.`

Also the stitches at opposite sides of the gaps 5 are relieved ofstrain. Y

It will also be observed that by varying the amount of excess materialor slack between the fastener elements, the amount of stretching of thegarment edge may be varied within different limits. Another advantage ofthe particular form of the fastener strip D is that there is a minimumof material therein, especially between the fastener elements so thatthe closure will be thin and have minimum bulk.

The fastener will of course include a complemental hook structure forthe edge of the garment opposite that to which the eye fastener issecured, as shown in Figures 2, 3, and 4. The hook fastener will besubstantially the same in construction as the eye fastener, the maindifference being that the facing strip E of the hook fastener l5 willnot project beyond the hook as does the facing strip C project beyondthe eye 6.

A modification of the invention is shown in Figure 11 wherein thefastener is similar to that shown in Figures 6 to 8, one differencebeing that the fastener strip F has the tabs I6 arranged at the side ofthe strip opposite that from which projects the tabs I2 of Figure 6, andthe fastener elements I1 are secured to the tabs. In this form of theinvention also, `there is a line of zigzag stitches I8 connecting thefacing strip C and the garment edge A so that there are two stitches i9at each side of each tab i6 to restrain lateral movement of the tabs inthe gaps. The fastener strip F is arranged. between the garment edge Aand facing strip C and is secured in position by a zigzag line ofstitches 20 passing through both the garment and the facing strip andincluding offset or elongated stitches 2l in juxtaposition to eachfastener element and penetrating the fastener strip in addition to thegarment and the facing strip. The construction and operation of thisform of the invention is otherwise the same as that shown in Figure 7.

A further modification is shown in Figure 13 where the fastener strip Ghas the portions 22 between the fastener elements extremely narrow andjuxtaposed tabs 23 and 24 projecting from opposite sides of the portions22. The fastener elements are connected to the tabs 23 which arearranged in the gaps between the garment and facing strips, while thetabs 24 are secured to the facing strip and garment by stitches 25. Theconstruction and operation of this form of the invention is otherwisethe same as that shown in Figure 7.

Where it is desirable to permit stretching of the garment and facingstrip without limitation by the fastener strip, I may use a constructionsuch as shown in Figures 14 to 19 inclusive. Here each fastener element26 is connected to a base piece 21 including two superposed pieces ofmaterial between which the fastener element is arranged. The base piecesare arranged between the garment A and facing strip C and within thegaps 28 corresponding to the gaps 5; and the base pieces are secured inposition by a line of stitches 29 extending longitudinally of the facingstrip and garment edge. In Figure 16 The strucnected to a base piece 3|,and the base pieces being arranged betweenv the facing strip E and thegarment edge A as shown in Figure 4, with the shank and bill of the hookprojecting from the edge of the garment and facing strip.

For convenience in handling the fastener elements attached to the basepieces as shown in Figure 14, and for easily and accurately locating thefastener elements in the gaps and preventing tilting or twisting of thefastener elements as they are inserted, the base pieces 21 may besecured as by gluing to a tearable supporting strip 32 which may be forexample of paper. After the fastener elements and base pieces have beensecured in position as shown in Figure 21, stretching of the garment andfacing strip will result in breaking or tearing of the carrier stripbetween the base pieces as shown at 33 in Figure 22, and thereafter thegarment edge may be stretched to its limit without hindrance from thefastener elements.

It is also possible to provide a fastener of the general characterdescribed which wholly prevents orlimits stretching of the garment andfacing strip, and a structure to accomplish this purpose is shown inFigures 24 and 25 where the fastener elements 35 are secured to afastener strip 36 formed of non-stretchable material of uniform width.The fastener strip 36 may be secured in position by a line of zigzagstitches 31 having elongated or offset stitches 38 in juxtaposition toeach fastener element and passing through the garment, the fastenerstrip and the facing strip.

The forms of the invention shown in Figures 7, 16, and 25 may becombined in a single garment closure to provide different degrees ofelasticity lengthwise of the closure. For example,

as shown in Figure 26, a fastener striplike the' strip D of Figure 7 maybe secured between the limited degree of elasticity, while the portionsadjacent the fastener 26, 21 will be of unlimited elasticity, and theportions carrying the fastener 36 will be substantially non-stretchable.In all of the forms of the invention so far described the facing stripis shown as formed of bias cloth, while in Figures 27 and 28 the facingstrip H is shown as formed of thin elastic fabric. This structureensures less thickness of the fastener than the facing strip C, and tomaintain a minimum of thickness and at the same time avoid unraveling orfraying, of the edges of the elastic strip, the free edge may have abinding 3B secured thereon while the other edge may be overlapped by aline of zigzag stitches 39 penetrating the garment and the elasticstrip.

It will be understood that the facing strip H may be combined with anyof the: forms of fastener strip hereinbefore described, the specificforms of fastener strips shown in Figures 27 and 28 being simply for thepurpose of illustrating one type of fastener strip.

Figures 31 to 34 show a further modification of the invention whereinthe eye fastener elements 4I are arranged to project directly from theedge of the garment. In this form of the invention the garment isdesignated I while the facing strip is designated K. The fastener stripdesignated L is of the same form illustrated in Figure 7 and is arrangedwith its edge substantially flush or in the same plane with the edge ofthe garment. 'Ihe facing strip K has one edge stitched to the edge ofthe garment by a line of stitches 42 and is formed with slots 43 throughwhich the fastener elements 4i project, the facing strip being foldedaround the edge of the garment and the fastener strip L and then securedto the opposite side of the garment by a line of stitches 43. Thefastener strip L is secured in position by a line of stitches 44 passingthrough the tabs 45 of the fastener strip in the same manner that thestitches I3 of Figure 7 pass through the tabs I2. The construction andoperation of this form of the fastener is otherwise the same as that ofFigure 7.

In Figures 35 and 38 is shown a hook fastener embodying the same generalconstruction as the eye fastener shown in Figures 31 to 34 inclusive.The main difference between this structure and the eye structure is thatthe hooks 45 are substituted for the eyes 4l.

A modification of the hook fastener element is shown in Figure 39wherein the end bar 41 of the base loop of the hook is secured to theedge of the base piece 48 and the major portion of the hook projectsbeyond the base piece. With this form of the hook structure, the forwardbar 49 of the hook base would be arranged in the gap 5D and this wouldprovide less thickness adjacent the edge of the hook fastener which isparticularly desirable in a hook fastener in order to ensure adequateclearance for the eye between the bill of the hook and the fabric andavoid undue protuberance in the vicinity of the hooks.

In some cases, the carrier strip may be made elastically stretchablebetween the points of attachment thereof to the garment; for example thestrip 32 of Figure 20 might be thin elastic and have the base pieces orcarriers 21 stitched thereon, so that the elasticity of the strip wouldhave the same effect as the extensibility of the slack Il in Figure 6.

In Figures 2, 3, and 29 the stitches 4 are shown as passing through onlythe turned under edge 5i of the garment, but if desired, and especiallyin connection with the hook fastener the stitches may pass through allof the plies as indicated at 52 in Figure 40 so as to providecompactness and avoid looseness of the material adjacent the engagingportion of the fastener element, hook or eye. j

In all forms of the eye fastener, the face strip provides a flap beneaththe engaging portions of the eyes, as shown at M in Figures 2-4inclusive and Figure 7, while in the hook fastener especially as shownin Figure 40, the garment edge forms a narrow flap N over the hooks, andthese flaps M and N cover the hook and eyes when they are engaged toprevent contact thereof with the body or underwear and provide a neatappearance.

To facilitate initial application to the garment of the carrier strip ofthe type shown in Figures 7 to 12, the strip may be glued on a breakablenon-elastic strip, for example of paper, at points adjacent the fastenerelements with the fastener elements accurately spaced to enter therespective gaps and with the required slack between the fastenerelements so that the carrier strip will be gripped by the feed mechanismwhen the garment and the carrier strip are fed through a sewing machineto stitch the carrier to the garment, and thereby hold the carrieragainst displacement. Upon rst stretching of the garment the paper stripwill tear whereupon the fastener will operate in the same way as thefastener of for example Figure 7.

If desired the face strips C, H, and K may be eliminated by folding overthe edge of the garment, inserting the fastener strip between the pliesof the fold, and perforating the fold to receive the fastener elements.

Other modifications in the details of structure of the fastener willoccur to those skilled in the art as within the scope of the inventionand therefore I do not desire to be understood as limiting myself in theconstruction or use of the invention except as may be required by thefollowing claims when construed in the light of the prior art.

Having thus described my invention, what I claim is:

l. In a fastener, the combination with elastic fabric, of a fastenercarrier strip extending in the direction of stretching of said fabric,and fasteners secured on said strip in spaced relation to each other,said Vcarrier strip being secured on said elastic fabric only at pointsjuxtaposed to said fasteners and with slack in the carrier stripbetweensaid points when the fabric is unstretched, whereby said slack willpermit stretching of said elastic fabric.

2. In a fastener, the combination with elastic fabric of a stretchablefacing strip secured thereon to stretch in the same direction as saidelastic fabric, there being gaps between said elastic fabric and saidfacing strip, a fastener carrier located between said elastic fabric andsaid facing strip and extending in the direction of stretch of saidfabric and facing strip, and fasteners secured on said carrier in spacedrelation and each projecting through one of said gaps, said carrierbeing secured on said elastic fabric only at points juxtaposed to saidfasteners and with slack in the carrier strip between said points whenthe fabric is unstretched, whereby said slack will permit stretching ofsaid elastic fabric.

3. The fastener set forth in claim 7 wherein said facing strip issecured to the elastic fabric by a line of stitches longitudinal of thestrip and the gaps are formed by slipped, skipped or jump stitches, eachgap has a plurality of stitches at each side extending transversely ofthe strip, and said carrier is a strip extending in the direction ofstretching of the fabric and has a plurality of lateral tabs onearranged in each gap between said stitches and having a fastener elementsecured thereto, said carrier strip being secured to said fabric andsaid facing strip only at points juxtaposed to said tabs and with slackbetween said tabs when the fabric is unstretched, whereby said slackwill permit stretching of said elastic fabric.

4. In a fastener, the combination with elastic fabric, of a fastenercarrier strip extending in the direction of stretching' of said fabric,and fasteners secured on said strip in spaced relation to each other,said carrier strip being secured to said fabric only at points injuxtaposition to said fastener elements and being eX- tensible betweensaid points to permit stretching of said elastic fabric.

5. The fastener set forth in claim 8 wherein said fastener carrier is astrip secured to said fabric only at spaced points in its length, and afastener is secured to the carrier in juxtaposed relation to each ofsaid'points, said carrier strip being extensible between said points.

6. The fastener set forth in claim 7 wherein said fastener carrier hasrelatively non-stretchable portions to which said fasteners are securedand has extensible portions between said nonstretchable portions, acontinuous line of stitches penetrating the fabric and facing strip andthe non-stretchable portions of the carrier, said stitches clearing theremainder o-f the carrier.

7. In a fastener, the combination with elastic fabric, of a stretchablefacing strip secured thereon to stretch in the same direction as saidelastic fabric, there being a row of gaps between said elastic fabricand said facing strip spaced in the direction of said stretching, afastener carrier located between said elastic fabric and said facingstrip and secured thereto to permit stretching of the elastic fabric insaid direction, and a fastener projecting through each of said gaps andsecured to said carrier and otherwise unconnected to said elastic fabricand facing strip.

8. In a fastener for use with elastic fabric, the combination of elasticfabric, a thin' single ply elastic facing strip secured thereon andstretchable in the same direction, a row of fasteners spaced apart insaid direction of stretching, and a substantially non-stretchablefastener carrier located between said fabric and said strip and securedthereto to permit stretching thereof in said direction, said fastenerelements being secured to said carrier and otherwise unconnected to saidfabric.

9. In a fastener for use with elastic fabric the combination withelastic fabric, of a facing strip folded around and embracing the edgeof said fabric and stretchable in the same direction as LEO ROSEMAN.

